Saline in Tuscany: Salt, History and Routes to Volterra

File:Termine cremagliera Saline-Volterra (particolare).jpg File:Termine cremagliera Saline-Volterra (particolare).jpg Photo: Unknown author Unknown author via Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 3.0

Saline is a place whose character derives directly from salt: its geological deposits gave rise to a history of springs, trade, industry and local production. When planning your trip, the town combines cultural and historical impressions with a tasting, a hike along an old railway line and connections to Volterra. Those exploring Tuscany on two or four wheels will also find a tangible connection to Saline in the routes.

A Salt Landscape Between Geology and History

The rock-salt deposits of Saline formed around six million years ago through the evaporation of salt water that covered the entire area at the time. The long-term extraction of rock salt from underground has caused large depressions in the ground around Saline. Moie Vecchie is an area in Saline di Volterra shaped by the centuries-long, uninterrupted use of numerous saltwater springs.

Saltwater springs, known as “moie”, emerged throughout the area between Saline, Montegemoli, Querceto and Buriano. They were probably already being used in Etruscan times. In Saline, therefore, you encounter not only individual historic buildings but also a landscape whose present-day character is closely connected with its salt deposits.

Trade, Settlement and Architecture

Saline is considered the first centre of the salt trade in Tuscany as early as 1100. The industrial exploitation of Saline’s salt deposits, ordered by the Grand Duke in the second half of the 18th century, led to the establishment of the settlement of Saline. The Palazzo dell'Orologio in the Saline di Stato complex was built in 1790 under Grand Duke Pietro Leopoldo.

Historically, salt was transported from Volterra to Empoli and distributed throughout Tuscany. The area’s salt resources were historically transported along the Volterra–Valdelsa–Florence road, known as the “Via del sale”. These trade routes give the local history a clear regional context.

Salt Production and Local Specialties

The salt produced in Saline reaches a purity of 99.9 percent. BOS is a craft brewery within the saltworks. A tasting programme can be reserved for the BOS salt-beer varieties; the beers are brewed using energy from the saltworks. The tour also includes a salt waterfall in the pavilion designed by Pier Luigi Nervi.

Hiking, Cycling and Motorcycle Routes

A moderately difficult hike is offered along the old Saline–Volterra railway line and is organised by I Camminatori Liberi. The Francigena-Mare Route 07 is a cycling connection between Saline and Volterra. A motorcycle tour through Valdera passes through Saline di Volterra at the junction with the SR68 and includes a visit there before returning to the route.

On the Valdera motorcycle route, a short stop in Saline includes the Palazzo dell'Orologio. Saline station is the terminus of the Cecina–Saline railway line; from there, a bus runs to Volterra. When choosing accommodation, you can therefore start with your preferred focus: salt history and architecture lead to different day plans than the hike, cycling connection or motorcycle-route stop.

A Festival Weekend in October

The patronal festival of Madonna del Conforto is associated with the second weekend of October in Saline. This celebration includes a village festival mass, which also features the Festa della patata in salamoia.

Other destinations: Prato D'era, Pignano, Villamagna, Mazzolla

For the overarching travel overview: Volterra.

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